Wednesday, May 29, 2024

Prague, Day 2

Prague is beautiful, and packed with tourists. The woman who checked me into my hotel last night said it was good that I'm here in the middle of the week, since it's less crowded. I think I don't want to know what it's like on a summer weekend!

I slept in today, and started my morning with a leisurely cup of tea (I carry my own teabags when I travel), the last of the delicious apricots I bought in Vienna, and a pastry that I grabbed at the store last night. I still don't know what this pastry is called, but it was tasty.


After breakfast, I joined the hordes streaming over the Charles Bridge.


I got to the Old Town just before noon, and saw the astronomical clock glockenspiel play. I also poked my head into town hall.
Town Hall glockenspiel

Inside Town Hall 

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There are so many beautiful old buildings here. I might label these properly when I get back to my computer next week, but for now here are a bunch of them, in no particular order:

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For lunch today I had a trdelnik with ice cream and Nutella:

  

Next stop was a grocery store, where I picked up some sandwich stuff, fruit, and snacks:


After a round trip up and down to my room (64 steps each way), I headed up to the Castle Quarter. First stop there was St. Vitus' Cathedral. Wow!
Nave
Organs (baroque one above, modern one below)

Rose window

Tower

Pulpit

St. Wenceslas Chapel

Tomb of St. John of Nepomuk



A couple of other photos from the Castle Quarter:
Basilica of St. George

Lamppost

(When I started up this picturesque stairway to the castle, I had no idea there were 208 steps along the way.)


Last stop of the evening was back in Old Town. There are a ton of concerts here aimed at tourists: almost all feature Vivaldi's The Four Seasons, plus an assortment of Mozart's greatest hits. I decided the organ concert at St. Francis of Assisi sounded more promising: there was a mezzo soprano, flute, and organ, and although the program had a lot of baroque music, some later stuff was also programmed.
There was at least one substitution on the program: How Beautiful Are the Feet is *not* from Judas Maccabeus.

Tuesday, May 28, 2024

Auf Wiedersehen Wien, Ahoj Praha

Today we tried out a different cafe for breakfast. I had a roll with ham and some sencha tea. It's so different building time into my day to eat a leisurely breakfast in a cafe: on workdays at home I eat at my desk, and on weekends I often eat breakfast on the run.


On the way up to the Hofburg, we stopped to take some photos:
Augustinerkirche spire

Josefplatz
 

Our first excursion today was to the morning exercises at the Spanish Riding School. On the way there we passed the stables (you can see a couple of Lipizzan heads if you zoom in):


This is the arena where the morning exercises take place:
This isn't the big fancy show that happens on weekends, but rather the actual morning exercise for some of the horses. The online reviews are bimodal: horse lovers think it's great, and non-horse lovers dragged there by their partners think it's the most boring thing ever. Susan and I both like horses, so we enjoyed our hour there. If you're not a horse lover, you might want to skip the following wall of text 🤣

Photography is forbidden after the horses enter the arena, so I'm going to try to describe what we saw.

Each 30-minute session had five horses with riders, one of which was a trainee. The full-fledged riders wear double-breasted brown tailcoats, cream breeches, black riding boots, and traditional (but goofy looking!) bicorn hats. The apprentices wear gray jackets with ties, and standard-looking riding helmets.

The horses start with a warmup, going from a walk to a trot to a canter. Later on they work on some of their fancy gaits, including a trot with a pause (I think that's "passage"?), and another one that has the horse moving diagonally while facing forward (their hind legs look like they're crossing).

The performing horses are white, of course, but one of the trainees had a horse that was still dark gray, so obviously a young horse. Their manes were all different lengths, but they were all combed to the left side of the horses' necks.

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After the morning exercises, I walked around a bit while Susan went to the auction house.
Stairs at the Albertina Museum

Hot dog stand by the opera house


Sadly, the opera house was closed to tours both yesterday and today, so I had to content myself with a million photos of the outside, and a couple inside the ticket-office entrance.
Arcade

Fountain

Lobby, viewed from ticket-office entrance

Staircase

Exit from the ticket office
 

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After packing my bags, I walked down to the Naschmarkt, and eventually met up with Susan there. The market has souvenir shops, restaurants, and all kinds of food (both ingredients and ready to eat). I bought a reusable shopping bag, and some falafel to eat later. 
And with that, it was time to say goodbye to Vienna. I stopped at the bakery near our pension and picked up a strawberry-vanilla pastry, then grabbed my luggage and took the U-bahn to the train station.

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The trip to Prague was uneventful, although a little delayed. The countryside is so lush and green, but I'll spare you the random photos taken from the train window. Instead, here's the pastry I bought in Vienna:

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This is the first time I've traveled by myself to a country where I not only don't speak the language, but can't even figure out what most of the signs were saying. Google Translate is extremely helpful when trying to decipher signs in stores (what kind of sandwich am i buying?). The train station is a bit puzzling to navigate: the directions for Uber pickup said something like "upper parking near 1b." It took me several tries to find that there was an escalator around a corner from platform 1b; the only sign I saw there said something about a historical building, and no big "P" anywhere. This must have been the historical part of the building:

  


I'm staying at Residence Thunovska, up near Prague Castle. The Uber driver had a hard time finding #19 (it is *not* across the street from #18 as one would expect), but eventually I made it here and am now settled in my 3rd-floor (American 4th-floor) room. My stair-climbing muscles have been getting a workout this trip, between the Roman arena in Verona and all the bridges in Venice, so it wasn't too painful to drag my backpack all the way up. (I think, though, that I will try to minimize the number of trips up and down I make each day!)